Travel Guide: Etna
Travel Guide: Etna
To the ancient people of Sicily, Mt Etna's eruptions became a metaphor for divine power unleashed on Earth.
In Greek mythology, Hephaestus — god of fire, metalworking, and blacksmiths — forged weapons for the Olympian gods beneath Mount Etna alongside his assistants, the Cyclopes. Here, they crafted Zeus’s thunderbolts and other divine armaments, and Etna’s eruptions became, for the ancient Greeks of Sicily, visible evidence of divine power bursting through the Earth.
Today, Mount Etna still feels mythic. The sight of its snowcapped summit rising above rugged volcanic cliffs and the jewel-toned turquoise of the Ionian Sea can seem almost impossibly beautiful, as though favored by some unnamed god. Yet beyond the dramatic scenery, it is Sicily’s food and wine culture — rooted in fertile volcanic soils and centuries of history — that truly draws pilgrims of gastronomy.
TRANSPORT
Sicily is easily reached via major international flights into either Catania or Palermo, though Catania is considerably closer to Etna’s wine regions. From both Catania and Taormina, daily tours depart either for the summit of Etna itself or for the wineries scattered across the volcano’s northern and eastern slopes. (A smaller number of producers farm on the western slopes, though they are not covered here.)
Train lines connect much of the island, but renting a car often provides the greatest flexibility. We opted to drive ourselves, though a word of caution: driving in Sicily feels a bit like playing a video game permanently set to “hard mode,” especially in the narrow, winding lanes of Taormina.
For winery visits around Etna, we hired a local driver, Andrea Pagano, who was excellent, reasonably priced, and deeply familiar with the region. He drove us through the northern slope wineries with the calm confidence of someone who has accepted Sicilian traffic as a force of nature.
WHEN TO VISIT
The ideal times to visit are the shoulder seasons: April through June and September through October. Temperatures are milder, crowds are thinner, and you avoid the peak-summer sensation of locals silently wondering why tourists insist on arriving all at once.
Autumn is especially rewarding thanks to the abundance of food and wine festivals throughout the region. That said, summer on a Mediterranean island has obvious appeal, particularly on Etna itself, where elevation keeps temperatures cooler than along the coast. Winter is the quietest season, and many businesses reduce operations or close entirely — though skiing on Mount Etna becomes possible. visit here.
September:
- ViniMilo, Milo (Sagra dei Vini dell’Etna) – one of Etna’s premier wine festivals featuring more than 100 wines, guided tastings, workshops, producer dinners, cellar visits, street food, Slow Food products, and terroir discussions.
- Palio delle Botti, Santa Venerina – a playful barrel-rolling race paired with Etna DOC tastings, artisan markets, cellar tours, and live music.
- Etna Porcini Mushroom Festival, Fornazzo (Milo area) – dedicated to Etna’s prized porcini mushrooms, paired with local dishes and regional wines.
- Bronte Pistachio Festival, Bronte – celebrating Bronte’s famous DOP pistachios through food stalls, pastries, performances, and artisan markets.
October:
- Taormina Gourmet, Taormina – large-scale wine and food event featuring tastings, masterclasses, chef dinners, industry panels, and Etna wine excursions.
- Taormina WinExpò, Taormina – showcase of Sicilian wine, produce, desserts, and culinary demonstrations.
- Piazze del Gusto, Linguaglossa – festival highlighting local olive oil, salami, hazelnuts, wines, and traditional cuisine.
- Ottobrata Zafferanese, Zafferana Etnea (near Milo) – every Sunday in October, the town celebrates seasonal produce, including grapes, honey, mushrooms, chestnuts, and artisanal foods, alongside music and street performances.
Source: Coppiera Travel Archives
WINERIES TO VISIT
Passopisciaro: Graci (See our Post), Frank Cornelissen (See our Post), Girolamo Russo, Passopisciaro, Palmento Costanzo
San Teodoro: Terre Nere, Eno-trio
Randazzo: Donnafugata, Tascante
Solicchiata: Pietradolce, I Custodi
Castiglione di Sicilia: Tornatore
WHERE TO STAY
There are so many places to stay in and around Catania, Randazzo, and Taormina. We chose to base ourselves in Taormina and stayed in a lovely Airbnb which had chickens, a fruit orchard, a pool, and a million-dollar view of the sea. Or you could opt for the San Dominico Palace from HBO’s White Lotus. In April, Taormina was already swarming with tourists, but it’s not hard to see why. It’s gorgeous - full stop. There’s a picturesque amphitheater overlooking the sea and Mt. Etna, built in the 3rd century BC! There’s also a fortress erected on the ridge of the mountain high above the town, and walking through the old town is spectacular.
Alternatively, there are a few wineries which also offer accommodation on Mt. Etna, like Monaci delle Terre Nere, a wine resort located in Zafferana Etnea - it’s a Relais & Chateaux member, Dimora Cottanera with ten elegantly appointed rooms, and Cavanera Etnea Resort, a peaceful establishment offering tastings of their own wines and other local producers, a restaurant, and hotel.
Several wineries on Etna also offer accommodations:
- Monaci delle Terre Nere (Zafferana Etnea) — a luxurious wine resort and Relais & Châteaux property.
- Dimora Cottanera — boutique accommodations with elegantly designed rooms.
- Cavanera Etnea Resort — peaceful countryside retreat offering winery tastings, a restaurant, and hotel accommodations.
Other Experiences
Randazzo Sunday Market
One of the region’s most authentic weekly experiences, this vibrant market unfolds in the medieval town of Randazzo on Etna’s northern slopes. Unlike many Sicilian towns, Randazzo largely escaped destruction from Etna’s historic eruptions, preserving much of its original architecture.
Cave Ox (Solicchiata)
Part osteria, part pizzeria, part wine bar — and entirely worth visiting. Cave Ox serves as an unofficial gathering place for local winemakers. The owner, Sandro, seems to know everyone in Etna wine, and over dinner you may find yourself seated beside some of the region’s most respected producers.
Enoteca Il Buongustaio (Randazzo)
A charming wine shop and bar in Randazzo’s medieval center and an ideal first stop before exploring Etna’s vineyards.
LAST THOUGHTS
Mount Etna remains one of Italy’s most dynamic and compelling wine regions — both figuratively and literally. The volcano’s latest major eruption occurred on June 2, 2025, producing significant lava flows and explosive activity dramatic enough to be photographed from space by European Space Agency satellites.
Etna is not a gentle landscape. Farming here demands resilience, adaptability, and acceptance of uncertainty. Yet for thousands of years, the volcano has rewarded those willing to live alongside it with fertile soils, singular wines, and one of the most breathtaking landscapes in the Mediterranean.
Source: Coppiera Travel Archives
